St Michaels MD, Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum

We were serenaded last night by a bluesy, acoustisical band, at one of the restaurants here in the harbor... we couldn't really hear the lyrics but the music was "just right" for our mood.  This morning we spent the day seeing the town of St Michaels which was surprisingly smaller than I thought it would be (based on the size of the harbors here and the "hopping" atmosphere on a Sunday afternoon).  I believe the population is something like 1200! (probably not counting boaters and vacationers)

This Monday morning, the town was quiet and mostly deserted.  We strolled the shopping streets and then went to the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum which is touted as the best museum on the Bay.  I think that is arguable, as we both like the Calvert County Museum in Solomons better.  I do think there are more actual boats on exhibit here, but, the other museum had more variety of things to look at.

The price of admission was worth it though, just to see Rob's face as we walked into an exhibit about recreational boating on the bay.  We came face to face with a 1952 Owens cruiser which you could walk through and examine.  Rob's family had a 1958 Owens and said it was very much like this one (only much newer and nicer).  The museum also had an exhibit of tugboats and quite an interesting exhibit about oystering and crabbing.

The town is also known as once being the slave home of Frederick Douglas and we saw his sister's home which is preserved right on the museum grounds.  He came back here during reconstruction and was a county marshal.

My favorite part of St Michaels are the church bells of Christ Church (established 1672) which chime the hour and, at the Angelus, they play a couple of hymns.  Like everything else these days, the carillon is electonically controlled.

St Michaels is known as "the town that fooled the British".  In 1813, when the British moved up the Chesapeake, they targeted St Michaels one evening.  However, the townspeople had moved lanterns up in the trees outside of the town and had dimmed all the lights in their homes and businesses.  When the Brits attacked, they overshot the town.





St Michaels MD

To the Eastern Shore: Solomons to St Michaels MD

We have 4 more nights during which to enjoy the Chesapeake before we need to be back in Woodbridge VA.  We are having trouble planning because, if the weather kicks up we don't want to be too far away.  Everyone told us the Eastern Shore is not to be missed, but crossing the Chesapeake is intimidating (and this coming from experienced San Francisco sailors... it is like comparing a sea to a lake... funny how our West Coast mentality had us thinking San Francisco was the biggest bay).

Sunday morning brought about a glorious day and as goodbyes were said, we often were wished "fair winds and following seas"... I convinced Rob to head for St. Michaels, a very historic town on the Eastern shore.  The water was even glassy in spots; you couldn't ask for a better passage.

On the way we passed a Lord Nelson Tug, which prompted me to search for a picture of Rob's most recently completed boat model for comparison:

We arrived at St Michael's Marina, one of several here in town.  Docking here on the east coast is a different experience to what we are used to.  There are very few floating docks with cleats.  Almost all docks are simply very large poles with a small, narrow finger about 10ft long on one side.  You have to back into the docks (which is hard with a flat bottom boat and one outboard) in order to reach power.  And you have to loop the lines around the poles, on both sides and criss cross your lines your lines in back in order to stay aligned in the "slip".  Another complication is leaving enough slack so that your boat can move up and down with the tide (and the line will slide along the poles)... but still not so much line that you move out of the designated area and remain close enough to get on and off the boat.  Rob will be adjusting and readjusting these lines throughout the night and worrying when he should be sleeping.

Still the littlest kid on the block

 There is a pool, fast internet (and I'm several days behind in my blog), so you know how I spent the afternoon

Can I be more relaxed?

Sunset was a beautiful red sky (red sky at night, sailors delight) so I know we'll have a great day tomorrow to explore St Michaels.

Pocket Yacht Rendezvous, Spring Cove Marina, Solomons, Maryland

Solomons MD is a small, compact village that is part island (connected to the mainland by bridge.  It is a popular destination among yachters who enjoy the Riverwalk, the marine museum, two lighthouses and fun shops and restaurants.  Unlike many places in the Chesapeake, it was tobacco, not fishing, which brought the first settlers.  Later shipbuilding became a big industry here: first fishing boats, then yachts.

Here we were meeting fellow TugNuts, the owners group for Ranger Tugs and Cutwater Cruisers.  The Pocket Yacht Rendezvous Agenda included pot luck appetizer meet and greet, "boat crawls" (exploring each other's boats), great breakfasts (including the Best Bloody Mary contest), ability to talk to the representative from the Ranger Tug factory (as well as representatives from the local brokerage sponsoring the event), pictures and videos taken by a flying drone (with a demonstration and talk about the technology.. I felt like we were in Vanilla Sky or Matrix or some other sci fi film.. at least it couldn't talk to me).. I will post these pictures and video later when they become available.

Also: USCG courtesy inspections, presentations on local eateries and tiki bars, wine tasting, pig roast dinner... and later on Saturday night the marina also put on two events:  The movie "Captain Phillips" was presented on a huge TV screen on the lawn, and then the pool tiki bar party rocked until midnight.  We thoroughly enjoyed meeting all the people there, especially some fellow C-Brats.  It was great to talk to the owners of our "dream boat" (the 28ft Cutwater) to find out their real life experience with the boat.  We are sorely tempted.  If we knew, for sure, that we wanted to continue this cruising lifestyle on the East Coast for a few more years, we would bite the bullet.    But then, our adventure wouldn't be as much of an accomplishment, would it?

It was fun seeing Andrew (from the factory that makes Ranger Tugs and Cutwaters).  We had met him once before when we ALMOST bought that 27ft new Ranger Tug at the Oakland Boat Show years ago, before retirement.  We talked to him another time, when we ALMOST bought a 25ft used Ranger Tug and the dealer couldn't answer a question we had.  This time we talked about Cutwaters; but we also enjoyed showing off our boat; which he had personally built.  Andrew started as a very young man, working at the C-Dory factory.  Then he was enticed over to work at a start up--making the competitor called a Cape Cruiser Venture (the 23 (our boat) and a 26).  The C-Dory company sued Cape Cruiser and won the molds for the Ventures, so Cape Cruisers Ventures were only built under that name for about 16 months.  C-Dory uses these same molds and continue to make C-Dory Ventures along with the C-Dory classics.  Then another competitor entered the market, convincing C-Dory to co-market their first boat: called C-Ranger.  It was a small, 21ft Ranger Tug.  Ranger Tugs were so cute they were destined to be popular; and several of C-Dory's employees moved over to this new company.  They now make 5 sizes of Tugs and 3 sizes of the new Cutwater.  Both companies are in the Pacific Northwest; located not far apart.  So, there is a close relationship between our boats; which is why we, like many other C-Brats, are also members of TugNuts (a similar owners group).  Strangely, both groups even have the same web administrators running the forums!

Saturday afternoon we explored Solomon's on our Velomini E-Bikes.  We were impressed with the Calvert Marine Museum and wished we had our 7-year-old grandson with us.  He would have loved the "tree house" (The Drum Point Lighthouse), the fossils dug out of the Calvert Cliffs, the dramatic recreation of the skeleton of a Miocene era prehistoric predecessor of the Great White Shark.  They also live displays of stingrays and skates; and it was great fun watching the river otters.

Since the area is known for shipbuilding, much of the museum focused on that, with exhibits of early boats on the bay, an active boat building club, an active wood carving and model ship building club, and, especially fun for Rob, was an exhibit of recreational boating in the 50-60's.  Runabouts, similar to the one he knew as a kid; and hydroplanes, similar to the one he and his brother built as kids.  It was a small museum so it didn't take a long time to see everything; but it was filled with really interesting (to us) things.

An older Mercury

Hydroplane boat

60's Runabout

Then we continued on our way to the riverwalk for some soft serve ice cream.  Back "home"we enjoyed the marina pool as the sun was too glorious to miss a single ray.  It was a perfect day.

Solomons Maryland

From Woodbridge VA to Solomon's MD... Crab Pots, Fishing Sticks and White Caps

Well, the sun didn't come out tomorrow, but at least it isn't raining.  We're headed to Solomon's Island MD for our introduction to the Chesapeake.

We've worried a bit about the voyage into the Chesapeake, as we must cross the mouth of the Potomac which is about 12 miles across at the junction.  The waters are fairly shallow and known for being choppy.

I have finally finished the book "River Horse" by William Least Heat-Moon (see early post) and it strikes me how he managed to pilot a boat across country thinking of witty intelligent things to talk about... and then remembering them verbatim when he later writes his book:  Of course, all of his ruminations are not that profound, but he tries:

If the beginning of a river is its head, why is its end a mouth?  Why not a foot or a toe?  Or a rectum....

or, describing a similar day of bumping and crashing on their C-Dory, he writes:

It's not the jarring that wears me down-its the din, the racket.  In this fiberglass, we're riding inside a big snare drum..

and:

The C-Dory can take it.  The question is whether the crew can.

You get the picture.  I tried to listen to music but even with head phones my teeth were rattling so hard, I couldn't focus.  For some reason a song from the TV series "The Big Bang Theory" kept playing through my head.  Amid the bangs and crashes on the white caps, I was not in a profound or thoughtful mindset.  All I heard was Sheldon's lullaby:

Soft kitty, warm kitty, little ball of fur
Happy kitty, pretty kitty, 
Purr Purr Purr

When the crab pots became an obstacle course, I started distracting myself by thinking of new lyrics:

Crab pots, snag pots, don't catch on the prop
Can't see em, try to miss em,
Swerve, Swerve, Swerve

Grey skies, white caps, on our way today
Across the mouth and up the bay
Bang, crash bang

Ches-a-peake, you look so bleak
But we're here for a week,
The sun will come, we'll have some fun
Running round the bay

There was more, but I'll spare you.  I tried out a few versions and Rob went from amused to annoyed.  He had important navigating to focus on.

We were far enough from land that we couldn't make out anything interesting to look at.  And, it was so grey and misty that we weren't sure what we were seeing sometimes: is that a sailboat or an island... and what are those sticks in the water? (turns out they are fishing sticks, connected to nets.. not sure what they are fishing for.)  Later I found out that if you are in waters of 10-20ft, that's probably when you'll encounter the crab pots and nets.  So, should we have been out in the deeper waves?  Or risk running aground in the shallower waters?  We just wanted to get there the shortest way possible and get out of the churn and away from the pots. There is no reason or rhyme to the planting of these pots, not in a line or in "fields".

We arrived safe and sound at Spring Cove Marina at Soloman's Island MD and were greeted by fellow Pocket Yachters.... Look there's a Cutwater 28 next to that Ranger Tug 27!  (the Cutwater is a luxury trailerable boat I've been watching for since 2010)...

 I told Rob, "We are in TROUBLE now!"

The sun finally did come out and felt great as we met others around the pool.  There were 16 boats plus 3 couples attending without boats:  3 C-Dorys (a 22, our 23, and a 25), 10 Ranger Tugs (25-31 ft) and 3 Cutwaters (made by the same company as Ranger Tug, but a newer design).  www.cutwaterboats.com.  As far as we could determine, most lived locally; and the smallest (us) had come the farthest.

Our 23 ft C-Dory is to the right of a 25 ft Ranger Tug... we are wondering just how "towable" these big "trailerable" pocket yachts are?

Occoquan Harbour Woodbridge VA

Spring Cove Marina, Solomons MD

Colonial Beach VA

As we packed up the boat and rearranged the car, I gave serious thought to changing the seasons in my "closet" (aka car).  I've worn nothing but sandals and shorts, and we have a whole storage bin in the boat filled with sweatshirts, fleece, jackets, etc.  It was grey and foggy this morning, but I dressed again for 89 humidity-filled degrees...

Thank God I didn't move that fleece to the car!  As the day progressed, it got cold... and right now we are sitting in the cabin with the heat going.

The cruise today was fairly bumpy, even though the winds were not high.  And the river and bay were dense with logs and other debris.  Not the smoothest or most peaceful ride; but uneventful.

We stopped for the day at Colonial Beach... I have been wanting to come here ever since the kids moved to Virginia... but it isn't exactly the kind of day I anticipated spending here.  It's too grey to take pictures, so I'm taking a few from the net to show you some highlights.

Colonial Beach is on a little peninsula between the Potomac and the Chesapeake.  It is a beach community for the Washington DC area; a very small town that advertises it has only one stoplight. (population 3550). On one side of the spit of land are marinas, and there are nice beaches, piers, and a casino on the Chesapeake side.  The Chesapeake is all technically Maryland, so the casino, which sits on pilings over the water, is taxed and considered to be Maryland!  Nearby is a long pier, though, and we were told that Maryland gave that pier to Virginia because often there would be rowdy folks out there and it was too difficult to police it.

We walked to a restaurant for lunch and as we left to walk to the grocery store, it was starting to rain. The lady who worked at Nightingales Marina happened to be driving by and stopped to ask if we needed a ride.   We did our shopping, and then she came back to pick us up.  Instead of taking us right back, she drove us through town a bit and told us all about this sleepy town.  More southern hospitality.

Alexander Graham Bell lived here at one time.  This was his home.  He also started a school for the deaf here in town.

And this is what it was supposed to look like today :)  "The sun will come out tomorrow...  I hope"

Colonial Beach VA

A Respite in Woodbridge VA

We launched at Occoquan Marina on the Occoquan River (just off the Potomac) in Woodbridge Virginia.  This would be our home base for a few days, and then we would return here to store Freedom for a month.  We have family in Woodbridge and spent a great memorial day weekend with them... taking grandson for a boat ride, going to the B&O railroad museum in Baltimore (we have train lovers in the genetic pool), then to see Medival Times (we also have lovers of knights, swords and horses).

And on the third day, we rested... washed the car and hit the swimming pool.  We have been on the go for a solid month and it was nice to just chill "at home".

 When grandson went back to school, the two of us took a day to drive to see Monticello; the mountain residence of Thomas Jefferson.  It was so interesting... much more so than Mount Vernon which I saw years ago.  TJ was a renaissance man: an inventor, a scientist, a philosopher as well as our 3rd president.  It was a lovely day to see a lovely home in an idyllic setting.

 Then it was back to the boat to do some projects: install our "new" Ebay GPS, and some handles and steps.  There is always something to work on when you have a boat.  In fact, I have a list going of things to sew and buy when we get home.  The weather was extremely hot and muggy and we experienced severe thunderstorms the last two nights.. but we were snug as a bug in a rug.. in our C-Dory

Occoquan Harbour, Woodbridge VA

Medieval Times, Baltimore MD

B&O Railroad Museum, Baltimore MD

Monticello (Thomas Jefferson's Home)

Colonial Williamsburg

We arrived at Colonial Williamsburg a bit exhausted but did walk to Duke of Gloucester Street to have dinner at the tavern.  I LOVED Williamsburg so I'm afraid I am going to bore you with all the details. It was probably one of the more expensive dinners we've had (tourist fare), but very tasty and served by appropriately attired Colonial servants who called me "milady" despite my shorts, sweaty t-shirt and hat hair. Throughout the meal we were seranaded by minstrals with flute, fife, guitar, mandolin... We were seated outdoors in the lovely garden on a perfect evening.

After a glorious tub bath (I hope our next boat has a tub) and a good nights sleep we set off with the goal of seeing some musical performances in another tavern.  One of the guides explained that the reason there were so many taverns (something like 20 for a town of 1500 residents), was because this was the capital city where the House of Burgess met to legislate, incarcerate, judge and possibly hang offenders.  It was a party town; lots of dancing and performances.

We were treated to both vocal and instrumental music, as well as some comedic talks and dances.  Afterwards, I approached the harpsichord player to ask to see his instrument.  I've always liked harpsichord and hope the I will get an explanation of how it works.  Someday, maybe someone will let me play "Chopsticks" or "Heart and Soul" on a harpsichord and my life will be complete.  Instead he got very excited, still keeping his Colonial persona and speech, telling me about an exhibition of antique keyboard instruments at the Folk Art Museum.  I had considered the museum as we planned the day but discarded the idea as I thought Rob would be bored with primitive art and quilts (which are two things I enjoy).  But now it was back on the agenda.

Then, as we were strolling to the capital, we heard someone speaking out and walked down to a ravine behind yet another tavern.  There, in a rustic amphitheater, was Thomas Jefferson, speaking and answering ad-hoc questions.  No one could phase him, no matter what he was asked, he remained in character and speech true to Jeffersonian principle.

The capital had burned down twice before being reconstructed, in modern era, in the design of the first captial.. the one used before the revolution by the house of Burgess.  Still, the tour guide focused on the era when Jefferson served here, rewriting all the laws, after the Revolution... an in accordance with being a republic.  Removing the law of inheritance to first born males, for example.  He believed that the pursuit of property should be available to all men, and by doing that more people could vote and rule by the majority of the people.

The capital, with it's two rounded sides, separated by the covered piazza was beautiful inside.  What struck me most were that so many of the Colonial actors/interpreters spoke with English accents.  I'd never really thought about it but I imagined Washington, Jefferson and our other founding fathers to speak like Americans! (possibly with southern accents)

As we left the Capital we approached a gathering crowd in quite a state of agitation as the Declaration of Independence was read; condemning the tyrant king.  Afterwards a vigorous discussion was overheard between two men on the street.  One, loyal to the king, another a revolutionary.

Then we took a nice, airconditioned bus to the Folk museum.  Those of you who know me will smile when you imagine my glee at seeing that there was a special display called "A Handsome Cupboard of Plate".  Plates!  Pottery!  Dinnerware!  Silverware!  Added to quilts, and antique instruments, I was in for a treat.. and Rob sighed.

This piece was an anomoly.. it didn't belong in the fine Colonial furniture, or in the musical instruments, so it was placed in an area of homemade folk art insturments.  It has numerous hidden compartments and looks like a bureau drawer... but, if you open it, it houses a simple piano.  No one knows why they would hide a piano in this way... perhaps pianos were taxed as a luxury item?

Spinets, Piano Forte and Harpsichords with listening stations.

We came upon another performance in the museum: this of a free black person living in Williamsburg.  Quite a bit was known of her and her family due to property transactions and law suits.  She owned a little land and had a laundress business.

Heading back to the main street we came across this very lovely garden.  We are here at the perfect time of the year... not many school kids, not crowded, not too hot.

I'm not sure you could imagine my delight as we stumbled across George Washington addressing his troops as they prepared to leave for Yorktown.  Literally, my hair raised on my neck, and I couldn't have been more excited than if he was the real thing.  It must have been his white horse... there is something about a hero on a white horse that thrills a maiden. Huzzah!

The troops performed some exercises displaying fighting tactics while the drum and fifes played for us

It was a great day.  I wish every American school kid could come here.  Thank you John Rockafeller for preserving this for us.

We returned to the hotel to rest and blog, and then at 8:30 met in the lobby for a free ghost tour (courtesy of the hotel).  Only 3 other guests were with us, and ironically, one was from Nevada!  The tour was fun and she added other general facts about Williamsburg that we hadn't known.

I typed this all in the car, while enroute back to Steves in Portsmouth to pick up our boat.  Technology is amazing, isn't it?

Colonial Williamsburg

Yorktown and Jamestown

Last night we stayed at "Joan's B&B" (in the guest room at our new C-Brat friend's house).  They have gone above and beyond any preconception of southern hospitality.  Not only was a "real bed and shower" a welcome respite, but we could get laundry done and enjoyed a wonderful homemade meal next door with his sister, her husband and their mom.  We have made new friends on this trip and will miss them!

We left the boat there and went on our way to visit Yorktown, Jamestown and Williamsburg (staying at Williamsburg Lodge for 2 night..YAY!)  But, of course, we had to first stop at West Marine as it was on the way... and of course, "a boat is a hole in the water that you pour money into".

The Yorktown Visitor's Center is well done, explaining how General Washington tricked the Brits into thinking they were still camped outside of NYC (by leaving tents and a few troops doing drills etc)..and then marched down to Yorktown, where, combined with the French navy, they won the war for us.  Hooray! (I mean, Huzzah!... huzzah?)

We took the little trolley around town, saw the fabulous Yorktown monument (below), and the lovely coastline and little shoppes... with girls walking around in bikinis.  Looks like a nice summer retreat town.

Then we stopped at Jamestown where we saw the reconstructed Jamestown fort (small wooden buildings surrounded by tall wooden fences.  Also an example Powaton (sp?) Indian village, where we heard the true story of Pocahontas and John Smith... wait, you mean that there were no singing trees?

Along the river they had three sailing ships to represent the three ships who brought the Jamestown settlers.  No, they weren't the Nina Pinta and Santa Maria... but for whatever reason, there were three ships.  The ships apparently do sail and sometimes interpreters will bring one to other towns so that people there can tour them.

Jamestown was interesting to me since I had recently read Chesapeake by Michener where the first few chapters were about the Indians and then John Smith (who was not that favorably portrayed).

These were quick visits; worth doing, but probably better for kids than adults.  On to Williamsburg!

Yorktown VA
Jamestown VA

Our Intrepid "Swamp Fox"

I hope I won't be embarrassing him here, so I won't use real names, but just call him Francis; after Francis Marion, "The Swamp Fox" of revolutionary fame.  Our 'Swamp Fox" built his own 28 ft boat... It's lines are similar to a C-Dory, but it is much longer and taller with a deeper keel.  It is also fairly narrow for its length (about 8 ft wide).  

For anyone who doesn't know; or doesn't want to reference Wikipedia to find out; Francis Marion is considered the "father of guerilla warfare", and the movie "Patriot" (Mel Gibson) is very loosely inspired by his life and escapades.  All along the ICW we saw references to Francis Marion (including a very lovely state park/campground).  He confounded the Brits, time and time again; ecaping into the swamps, to later strike again.

Our "Francis" loves the swamps and can't resist exploring every creek and inlet along the way.  He often veered off course, away from the group; later to meet up and join us for a meal.  We didn't worry, we knew he'd come around when Joan or David was cooking!  He dragged his dinghy so that he could explore areas where his boat wouldn't go.  We know he caught some fish but only to know he "could have" fed himself if he needed to.  He would anchor off, away from the docks, because he just preferred to anchor out.  If he's not the Swamp Fox, then he is Huck Finn reincarnated.  

Catfish for dinner?  Nah, he just caught it for fun

On our last day, "Francis" dawdled at some point and missed a bridge; so he traveled behind us a bit.  However, as we approached Portsmouth, we were stuck waiting for a bridge to lift (waiting over an hour and a half) and there he caught up with us.  He looked around and radioed that he thought he could go under, through the trestles.  Then motored up and down, investigating to find the best spot.  Our jaws dropped as he proceeded right through!  We asked if he scraped and whether we should try it.  We didn't get a definitive answer, so we exercised caution. Our boat is about the same beam, but the C-25 would definitely not have made it.  So, we sat another half hour listening to the pre-recorded announcement stating that the bridge would lift "momentarily".