Colonial Williamsburg

We arrived at Colonial Williamsburg a bit exhausted but did walk to Duke of Gloucester Street to have dinner at the tavern.  I LOVED Williamsburg so I'm afraid I am going to bore you with all the details. It was probably one of the more expensive dinners we've had (tourist fare), but very tasty and served by appropriately attired Colonial servants who called me "milady" despite my shorts, sweaty t-shirt and hat hair. Throughout the meal we were seranaded by minstrals with flute, fife, guitar, mandolin... We were seated outdoors in the lovely garden on a perfect evening.

After a glorious tub bath (I hope our next boat has a tub) and a good nights sleep we set off with the goal of seeing some musical performances in another tavern.  One of the guides explained that the reason there were so many taverns (something like 20 for a town of 1500 residents), was because this was the capital city where the House of Burgess met to legislate, incarcerate, judge and possibly hang offenders.  It was a party town; lots of dancing and performances.

We were treated to both vocal and instrumental music, as well as some comedic talks and dances.  Afterwards, I approached the harpsichord player to ask to see his instrument.  I've always liked harpsichord and hope the I will get an explanation of how it works.  Someday, maybe someone will let me play "Chopsticks" or "Heart and Soul" on a harpsichord and my life will be complete.  Instead he got very excited, still keeping his Colonial persona and speech, telling me about an exhibition of antique keyboard instruments at the Folk Art Museum.  I had considered the museum as we planned the day but discarded the idea as I thought Rob would be bored with primitive art and quilts (which are two things I enjoy).  But now it was back on the agenda.

Then, as we were strolling to the capital, we heard someone speaking out and walked down to a ravine behind yet another tavern.  There, in a rustic amphitheater, was Thomas Jefferson, speaking and answering ad-hoc questions.  No one could phase him, no matter what he was asked, he remained in character and speech true to Jeffersonian principle.

The capital had burned down twice before being reconstructed, in modern era, in the design of the first captial.. the one used before the revolution by the house of Burgess.  Still, the tour guide focused on the era when Jefferson served here, rewriting all the laws, after the Revolution... an in accordance with being a republic.  Removing the law of inheritance to first born males, for example.  He believed that the pursuit of property should be available to all men, and by doing that more people could vote and rule by the majority of the people.

The capital, with it's two rounded sides, separated by the covered piazza was beautiful inside.  What struck me most were that so many of the Colonial actors/interpreters spoke with English accents.  I'd never really thought about it but I imagined Washington, Jefferson and our other founding fathers to speak like Americans! (possibly with southern accents)

As we left the Capital we approached a gathering crowd in quite a state of agitation as the Declaration of Independence was read; condemning the tyrant king.  Afterwards a vigorous discussion was overheard between two men on the street.  One, loyal to the king, another a revolutionary.

Then we took a nice, airconditioned bus to the Folk museum.  Those of you who know me will smile when you imagine my glee at seeing that there was a special display called "A Handsome Cupboard of Plate".  Plates!  Pottery!  Dinnerware!  Silverware!  Added to quilts, and antique instruments, I was in for a treat.. and Rob sighed.

This piece was an anomoly.. it didn't belong in the fine Colonial furniture, or in the musical instruments, so it was placed in an area of homemade folk art insturments.  It has numerous hidden compartments and looks like a bureau drawer... but, if you open it, it houses a simple piano.  No one knows why they would hide a piano in this way... perhaps pianos were taxed as a luxury item?

Spinets, Piano Forte and Harpsichords with listening stations.

We came upon another performance in the museum: this of a free black person living in Williamsburg.  Quite a bit was known of her and her family due to property transactions and law suits.  She owned a little land and had a laundress business.

Heading back to the main street we came across this very lovely garden.  We are here at the perfect time of the year... not many school kids, not crowded, not too hot.

I'm not sure you could imagine my delight as we stumbled across George Washington addressing his troops as they prepared to leave for Yorktown.  Literally, my hair raised on my neck, and I couldn't have been more excited than if he was the real thing.  It must have been his white horse... there is something about a hero on a white horse that thrills a maiden. Huzzah!

The troops performed some exercises displaying fighting tactics while the drum and fifes played for us

It was a great day.  I wish every American school kid could come here.  Thank you John Rockafeller for preserving this for us.

We returned to the hotel to rest and blog, and then at 8:30 met in the lobby for a free ghost tour (courtesy of the hotel).  Only 3 other guests were with us, and ironically, one was from Nevada!  The tour was fun and she added other general facts about Williamsburg that we hadn't known.

I typed this all in the car, while enroute back to Steves in Portsmouth to pick up our boat.  Technology is amazing, isn't it?

Colonial Williamsburg

Yorktown and Jamestown

Last night we stayed at "Joan's B&B" (in the guest room at our new C-Brat friend's house).  They have gone above and beyond any preconception of southern hospitality.  Not only was a "real bed and shower" a welcome respite, but we could get laundry done and enjoyed a wonderful homemade meal next door with his sister, her husband and their mom.  We have made new friends on this trip and will miss them!

We left the boat there and went on our way to visit Yorktown, Jamestown and Williamsburg (staying at Williamsburg Lodge for 2 night..YAY!)  But, of course, we had to first stop at West Marine as it was on the way... and of course, "a boat is a hole in the water that you pour money into".

The Yorktown Visitor's Center is well done, explaining how General Washington tricked the Brits into thinking they were still camped outside of NYC (by leaving tents and a few troops doing drills etc)..and then marched down to Yorktown, where, combined with the French navy, they won the war for us.  Hooray! (I mean, Huzzah!... huzzah?)

We took the little trolley around town, saw the fabulous Yorktown monument (below), and the lovely coastline and little shoppes... with girls walking around in bikinis.  Looks like a nice summer retreat town.

Then we stopped at Jamestown where we saw the reconstructed Jamestown fort (small wooden buildings surrounded by tall wooden fences.  Also an example Powaton (sp?) Indian village, where we heard the true story of Pocahontas and John Smith... wait, you mean that there were no singing trees?

Along the river they had three sailing ships to represent the three ships who brought the Jamestown settlers.  No, they weren't the Nina Pinta and Santa Maria... but for whatever reason, there were three ships.  The ships apparently do sail and sometimes interpreters will bring one to other towns so that people there can tour them.

Jamestown was interesting to me since I had recently read Chesapeake by Michener where the first few chapters were about the Indians and then John Smith (who was not that favorably portrayed).

These were quick visits; worth doing, but probably better for kids than adults.  On to Williamsburg!

Yorktown VA
Jamestown VA

Our Intrepid "Swamp Fox"

I hope I won't be embarrassing him here, so I won't use real names, but just call him Francis; after Francis Marion, "The Swamp Fox" of revolutionary fame.  Our 'Swamp Fox" built his own 28 ft boat... It's lines are similar to a C-Dory, but it is much longer and taller with a deeper keel.  It is also fairly narrow for its length (about 8 ft wide).  

For anyone who doesn't know; or doesn't want to reference Wikipedia to find out; Francis Marion is considered the "father of guerilla warfare", and the movie "Patriot" (Mel Gibson) is very loosely inspired by his life and escapades.  All along the ICW we saw references to Francis Marion (including a very lovely state park/campground).  He confounded the Brits, time and time again; ecaping into the swamps, to later strike again.

Our "Francis" loves the swamps and can't resist exploring every creek and inlet along the way.  He often veered off course, away from the group; later to meet up and join us for a meal.  We didn't worry, we knew he'd come around when Joan or David was cooking!  He dragged his dinghy so that he could explore areas where his boat wouldn't go.  We know he caught some fish but only to know he "could have" fed himself if he needed to.  He would anchor off, away from the docks, because he just preferred to anchor out.  If he's not the Swamp Fox, then he is Huck Finn reincarnated.  

Catfish for dinner?  Nah, he just caught it for fun

On our last day, "Francis" dawdled at some point and missed a bridge; so he traveled behind us a bit.  However, as we approached Portsmouth, we were stuck waiting for a bridge to lift (waiting over an hour and a half) and there he caught up with us.  He looked around and radioed that he thought he could go under, through the trestles.  Then motored up and down, investigating to find the best spot.  Our jaws dropped as he proceeded right through!  We asked if he scraped and whether we should try it.  We didn't get a definitive answer, so we exercised caution. Our boat is about the same beam, but the C-25 would definitely not have made it.  So, we sat another half hour listening to the pre-recorded announcement stating that the bridge would lift "momentarily".

C-Brats: Coinjock to Currituck Sound to Portsmouth

We all awoke early (for me, 8am is early) to get a jump on the Currituck Sound which can be rough even on good days, but winds were scheduled to pick up later in the morning.  First, though, we had to have breakfast.  Our chef, David, had prepared delicious pancakes (made with $6 half gallon of milk from Coinjock Marina's store), fried ham steaks, pineapple... and Joan had made cinnamon sauteed apples.  Yum!

Then we were on our way:

Alma's Only

A beautiful yacht aptly named "GEM"

The "Great Lock" was much more modern, with built in bumpers, and a very smooth ride. "Easy Peasy"

Our Fearless Leader Commander Steve

We made great time until we got stuck waiting for this bridge to open... we sat for an hour and a half as the bridge announced by recording that it would open "momentarily".  Other boats had already been waiting an hour before we got there.  The good news was that Bruce from "River Hourse", who had missed a prior bridge opening, caught up with us... but that's a story for the next post.

Coinjock NC

Portsmouth VA