Colonial Beach VA

As we packed up the boat and rearranged the car, I gave serious thought to changing the seasons in my "closet" (aka car).  I've worn nothing but sandals and shorts, and we have a whole storage bin in the boat filled with sweatshirts, fleece, jackets, etc.  It was grey and foggy this morning, but I dressed again for 89 humidity-filled degrees...

Thank God I didn't move that fleece to the car!  As the day progressed, it got cold... and right now we are sitting in the cabin with the heat going.

The cruise today was fairly bumpy, even though the winds were not high.  And the river and bay were dense with logs and other debris.  Not the smoothest or most peaceful ride; but uneventful.

We stopped for the day at Colonial Beach... I have been wanting to come here ever since the kids moved to Virginia... but it isn't exactly the kind of day I anticipated spending here.  It's too grey to take pictures, so I'm taking a few from the net to show you some highlights.

Colonial Beach is on a little peninsula between the Potomac and the Chesapeake.  It is a beach community for the Washington DC area; a very small town that advertises it has only one stoplight. (population 3550). On one side of the spit of land are marinas, and there are nice beaches, piers, and a casino on the Chesapeake side.  The Chesapeake is all technically Maryland, so the casino, which sits on pilings over the water, is taxed and considered to be Maryland!  Nearby is a long pier, though, and we were told that Maryland gave that pier to Virginia because often there would be rowdy folks out there and it was too difficult to police it.

We walked to a restaurant for lunch and as we left to walk to the grocery store, it was starting to rain. The lady who worked at Nightingales Marina happened to be driving by and stopped to ask if we needed a ride.   We did our shopping, and then she came back to pick us up.  Instead of taking us right back, she drove us through town a bit and told us all about this sleepy town.  More southern hospitality.

Alexander Graham Bell lived here at one time.  This was his home.  He also started a school for the deaf here in town.

And this is what it was supposed to look like today :)  "The sun will come out tomorrow...  I hope"

Colonial Beach VA

A Respite in Woodbridge VA

We launched at Occoquan Marina on the Occoquan River (just off the Potomac) in Woodbridge Virginia.  This would be our home base for a few days, and then we would return here to store Freedom for a month.  We have family in Woodbridge and spent a great memorial day weekend with them... taking grandson for a boat ride, going to the B&O railroad museum in Baltimore (we have train lovers in the genetic pool), then to see Medival Times (we also have lovers of knights, swords and horses).

And on the third day, we rested... washed the car and hit the swimming pool.  We have been on the go for a solid month and it was nice to just chill "at home".

 When grandson went back to school, the two of us took a day to drive to see Monticello; the mountain residence of Thomas Jefferson.  It was so interesting... much more so than Mount Vernon which I saw years ago.  TJ was a renaissance man: an inventor, a scientist, a philosopher as well as our 3rd president.  It was a lovely day to see a lovely home in an idyllic setting.

 Then it was back to the boat to do some projects: install our "new" Ebay GPS, and some handles and steps.  There is always something to work on when you have a boat.  In fact, I have a list going of things to sew and buy when we get home.  The weather was extremely hot and muggy and we experienced severe thunderstorms the last two nights.. but we were snug as a bug in a rug.. in our C-Dory

Occoquan Harbour, Woodbridge VA

Medieval Times, Baltimore MD

B&O Railroad Museum, Baltimore MD

Monticello (Thomas Jefferson's Home)

Colonial Williamsburg

We arrived at Colonial Williamsburg a bit exhausted but did walk to Duke of Gloucester Street to have dinner at the tavern.  I LOVED Williamsburg so I'm afraid I am going to bore you with all the details. It was probably one of the more expensive dinners we've had (tourist fare), but very tasty and served by appropriately attired Colonial servants who called me "milady" despite my shorts, sweaty t-shirt and hat hair. Throughout the meal we were seranaded by minstrals with flute, fife, guitar, mandolin... We were seated outdoors in the lovely garden on a perfect evening.

After a glorious tub bath (I hope our next boat has a tub) and a good nights sleep we set off with the goal of seeing some musical performances in another tavern.  One of the guides explained that the reason there were so many taverns (something like 20 for a town of 1500 residents), was because this was the capital city where the House of Burgess met to legislate, incarcerate, judge and possibly hang offenders.  It was a party town; lots of dancing and performances.

We were treated to both vocal and instrumental music, as well as some comedic talks and dances.  Afterwards, I approached the harpsichord player to ask to see his instrument.  I've always liked harpsichord and hope the I will get an explanation of how it works.  Someday, maybe someone will let me play "Chopsticks" or "Heart and Soul" on a harpsichord and my life will be complete.  Instead he got very excited, still keeping his Colonial persona and speech, telling me about an exhibition of antique keyboard instruments at the Folk Art Museum.  I had considered the museum as we planned the day but discarded the idea as I thought Rob would be bored with primitive art and quilts (which are two things I enjoy).  But now it was back on the agenda.

Then, as we were strolling to the capital, we heard someone speaking out and walked down to a ravine behind yet another tavern.  There, in a rustic amphitheater, was Thomas Jefferson, speaking and answering ad-hoc questions.  No one could phase him, no matter what he was asked, he remained in character and speech true to Jeffersonian principle.

The capital had burned down twice before being reconstructed, in modern era, in the design of the first captial.. the one used before the revolution by the house of Burgess.  Still, the tour guide focused on the era when Jefferson served here, rewriting all the laws, after the Revolution... an in accordance with being a republic.  Removing the law of inheritance to first born males, for example.  He believed that the pursuit of property should be available to all men, and by doing that more people could vote and rule by the majority of the people.

The capital, with it's two rounded sides, separated by the covered piazza was beautiful inside.  What struck me most were that so many of the Colonial actors/interpreters spoke with English accents.  I'd never really thought about it but I imagined Washington, Jefferson and our other founding fathers to speak like Americans! (possibly with southern accents)

As we left the Capital we approached a gathering crowd in quite a state of agitation as the Declaration of Independence was read; condemning the tyrant king.  Afterwards a vigorous discussion was overheard between two men on the street.  One, loyal to the king, another a revolutionary.

Then we took a nice, airconditioned bus to the Folk museum.  Those of you who know me will smile when you imagine my glee at seeing that there was a special display called "A Handsome Cupboard of Plate".  Plates!  Pottery!  Dinnerware!  Silverware!  Added to quilts, and antique instruments, I was in for a treat.. and Rob sighed.

This piece was an anomoly.. it didn't belong in the fine Colonial furniture, or in the musical instruments, so it was placed in an area of homemade folk art insturments.  It has numerous hidden compartments and looks like a bureau drawer... but, if you open it, it houses a simple piano.  No one knows why they would hide a piano in this way... perhaps pianos were taxed as a luxury item?

Spinets, Piano Forte and Harpsichords with listening stations.

We came upon another performance in the museum: this of a free black person living in Williamsburg.  Quite a bit was known of her and her family due to property transactions and law suits.  She owned a little land and had a laundress business.

Heading back to the main street we came across this very lovely garden.  We are here at the perfect time of the year... not many school kids, not crowded, not too hot.

I'm not sure you could imagine my delight as we stumbled across George Washington addressing his troops as they prepared to leave for Yorktown.  Literally, my hair raised on my neck, and I couldn't have been more excited than if he was the real thing.  It must have been his white horse... there is something about a hero on a white horse that thrills a maiden. Huzzah!

The troops performed some exercises displaying fighting tactics while the drum and fifes played for us

It was a great day.  I wish every American school kid could come here.  Thank you John Rockafeller for preserving this for us.

We returned to the hotel to rest and blog, and then at 8:30 met in the lobby for a free ghost tour (courtesy of the hotel).  Only 3 other guests were with us, and ironically, one was from Nevada!  The tour was fun and she added other general facts about Williamsburg that we hadn't known.

I typed this all in the car, while enroute back to Steves in Portsmouth to pick up our boat.  Technology is amazing, isn't it?

Colonial Williamsburg

Yorktown and Jamestown

Last night we stayed at "Joan's B&B" (in the guest room at our new C-Brat friend's house).  They have gone above and beyond any preconception of southern hospitality.  Not only was a "real bed and shower" a welcome respite, but we could get laundry done and enjoyed a wonderful homemade meal next door with his sister, her husband and their mom.  We have made new friends on this trip and will miss them!

We left the boat there and went on our way to visit Yorktown, Jamestown and Williamsburg (staying at Williamsburg Lodge for 2 night..YAY!)  But, of course, we had to first stop at West Marine as it was on the way... and of course, "a boat is a hole in the water that you pour money into".

The Yorktown Visitor's Center is well done, explaining how General Washington tricked the Brits into thinking they were still camped outside of NYC (by leaving tents and a few troops doing drills etc)..and then marched down to Yorktown, where, combined with the French navy, they won the war for us.  Hooray! (I mean, Huzzah!... huzzah?)

We took the little trolley around town, saw the fabulous Yorktown monument (below), and the lovely coastline and little shoppes... with girls walking around in bikinis.  Looks like a nice summer retreat town.

Then we stopped at Jamestown where we saw the reconstructed Jamestown fort (small wooden buildings surrounded by tall wooden fences.  Also an example Powaton (sp?) Indian village, where we heard the true story of Pocahontas and John Smith... wait, you mean that there were no singing trees?

Along the river they had three sailing ships to represent the three ships who brought the Jamestown settlers.  No, they weren't the Nina Pinta and Santa Maria... but for whatever reason, there were three ships.  The ships apparently do sail and sometimes interpreters will bring one to other towns so that people there can tour them.

Jamestown was interesting to me since I had recently read Chesapeake by Michener where the first few chapters were about the Indians and then John Smith (who was not that favorably portrayed).

These were quick visits; worth doing, but probably better for kids than adults.  On to Williamsburg!

Yorktown VA
Jamestown VA

Our Intrepid "Swamp Fox"

I hope I won't be embarrassing him here, so I won't use real names, but just call him Francis; after Francis Marion, "The Swamp Fox" of revolutionary fame.  Our 'Swamp Fox" built his own 28 ft boat... It's lines are similar to a C-Dory, but it is much longer and taller with a deeper keel.  It is also fairly narrow for its length (about 8 ft wide).  

For anyone who doesn't know; or doesn't want to reference Wikipedia to find out; Francis Marion is considered the "father of guerilla warfare", and the movie "Patriot" (Mel Gibson) is very loosely inspired by his life and escapades.  All along the ICW we saw references to Francis Marion (including a very lovely state park/campground).  He confounded the Brits, time and time again; ecaping into the swamps, to later strike again.

Our "Francis" loves the swamps and can't resist exploring every creek and inlet along the way.  He often veered off course, away from the group; later to meet up and join us for a meal.  We didn't worry, we knew he'd come around when Joan or David was cooking!  He dragged his dinghy so that he could explore areas where his boat wouldn't go.  We know he caught some fish but only to know he "could have" fed himself if he needed to.  He would anchor off, away from the docks, because he just preferred to anchor out.  If he's not the Swamp Fox, then he is Huck Finn reincarnated.  

Catfish for dinner?  Nah, he just caught it for fun

On our last day, "Francis" dawdled at some point and missed a bridge; so he traveled behind us a bit.  However, as we approached Portsmouth, we were stuck waiting for a bridge to lift (waiting over an hour and a half) and there he caught up with us.  He looked around and radioed that he thought he could go under, through the trestles.  Then motored up and down, investigating to find the best spot.  Our jaws dropped as he proceeded right through!  We asked if he scraped and whether we should try it.  We didn't get a definitive answer, so we exercised caution. Our boat is about the same beam, but the C-25 would definitely not have made it.  So, we sat another half hour listening to the pre-recorded announcement stating that the bridge would lift "momentarily".

C-Brats: Coinjock to Currituck Sound to Portsmouth

We all awoke early (for me, 8am is early) to get a jump on the Currituck Sound which can be rough even on good days, but winds were scheduled to pick up later in the morning.  First, though, we had to have breakfast.  Our chef, David, had prepared delicious pancakes (made with $6 half gallon of milk from Coinjock Marina's store), fried ham steaks, pineapple... and Joan had made cinnamon sauteed apples.  Yum!

Then we were on our way:

Alma's Only

A beautiful yacht aptly named "GEM"

The "Great Lock" was much more modern, with built in bumpers, and a very smooth ride. "Easy Peasy"

Our Fearless Leader Commander Steve

We made great time until we got stuck waiting for this bridge to open... we sat for an hour and a half as the bridge announced by recording that it would open "momentarily".  Other boats had already been waiting an hour before we got there.  The good news was that Bruce from "River Hourse", who had missed a prior bridge opening, caught up with us... but that's a story for the next post.

Coinjock NC

Portsmouth VA

Where in the hell is Coinjock?

I must confess, I do not know the answer to this question.  Last night it was FREEZING and, once Rob finally turned on the Wallas stove/heater, I didn't want to get out of bed.  All I can tell you is we left Elizabeth City around 8am and the next thing I knew, we had anchored and rafted for a little morning "brunch".  David ("Alma's Only") loves to cook, and the limited galley and storage apparently only provides a challenge to him.  Here is a picture of the "spread" I woke up to:

Then we motored for another hour or so, following our fearless leader Steve ("Osprey"), but I only raised my head from the pillow to catch a few pictures.  The next thing I knew, we were in Coinjock.  What is in Coinjock?  Well, my brother-in-law looked it up on Google Maps and wrote to tell us that "there is no there there"... I do see a few homes.  There is a nice marina here with some awesome boats and an amazingly great restaurant.  We passed a house where the grandmother had sewn the wings for the Wright Brothers.

 After my several naps today, I was ready for a great meal, with our new friends.  Its our last night of the official cruise.  They are talking about a James River Cruise-out in July and if we are in the area, we definitely want to participate.  We are having so much fun.  C-Brats are the best (and they feed you well too!) 

North Carolina Loop Dismal Swamp to Elizabeth City

This morning on the dismal swamp looked to be clear and crisp.  Dave, who apparently loves to cook, surprised us by making breakfast for the 7 of us.  Then we took a walk, across the pedestrian bridge, and over a boardwalk "loop" to see the swamp.  It is sure hard to imagine working in that swamp to hand dig a canal!  I heard lots of wildlife but, sadly, the only sighting was of a bunny and a little green "garden" snake.  I guess alligators aren't a big problem here!  There are supposed to be bears and wildcats... glad I didn't see them!

While underway, though, we did see a large water snake, lots of turtles and, we think, a beaver (could have been a muskrat).

Movin' on up... as we go south

Almost immediately after the visitors center is the second lock which we handled like pros.  It was still a thrill even if we didn't grin from ear to ear, thinking..." look at us, we're negotiating through a lock!"  I wonder if this will get "old" or if it will always be a bit nervewracking and exciting.

We stopped midway in a side creek and rafted up to enjoy a leisurely lunch.  Rob went out with Bruce ("River Horse") in his dinghy to take pictures, then Bruce decided to explore the cut while the rest of us napped and read... it was so peaceful and the day stayed slightly cool but very sunny.  It was a lovely run.

Anchoring out for lunch and a nap

Our stop at the end of the day was Lamb's Marina in Elizabeth City.  This marina is out of town but had a courtesy car and gas (which the marina in town doesn't).  And we didn't get berths in town because this weekend is the very famous "Potato Festival" which is a big deal here.  We saw potato fixed many different ways, along with all the usual festival fare.  Not good for my low carb diet!  There was even a potato peeling contest earlier today, and once again, we ran into a corn hole tournament.  I guess we've been missing out on a tradition in the Carolinas as this is our second sighting of corn hole tournaments?

We had dinner at a nice little restaurant which was excellent and avoided the food booths.  I still, however, could not resist the french fries.  It was the principle of the thing!

Elizabeth City has many lovely old homes, some run down, some that are being beautifully maintained.  It is the main city in these parts and has the federal and county court houses, and old churches established in the early 1700's.  It is known for its hospitality to boaters... particularly the "Rose Buddies", volunteers who meet and greet boaters visiting the area.  Overall we weren't that impressed with either Elizabeth City or Lamb's Marina... but we loved the Dismal Swamp.

Gorgeousness in Elizabeth City

Gingerbread House

Elizabeth City Potato Festival.. Music!

Dismal Swamp

Elizabeth City, NC