Cinco de Mayo in Georgetown SC

We traveled 52 miles to Georgetown SC and stayed 2 nights because it was such a quaint town and the weather was perfect in every way.  Here are a few pics from along the ICW:

I think I could live here :)

The docks are very long as the area between the homes and the water is marshy with some sort of grass... we call them tules but I think there is a local name for this type of swamp grass.

The first night in Georgetown, we rode our bikes to a local event at the Kominski Mansion, sitting under huge shade trees, and listened to a concert from the Long Bay Youth Orchestra.  It was almost surreal to look out on the ICW, listening to classical music and watching the leaves rustle above us in the gentle breeze.  You couldn't ask for a more glorious day.

We docked at the Harborwalk Marina which is literally right in the historic district and walking distance to several small, local museums... a Rice Museum and a maritime museum, as well as the Kominski Home museum.

The south is so genteel... I appreciated taking a break from shopping at all the cute little shops!

Georgetown was settled in the early 1700's and was once one of the biggest export towns for Carolina rice.  Today it has a paper mill and a steel mill which, unfortunately, are visible on the waterfront.  But we just looked past them and enjoyed the charming main street and beautiful tree lined side streets and watched the boats go by.

Harborwalk has very nice slips and restrooms, laundry facilities and they sell ice.  The grocery store is about 1.5 miles away.  It is right downtown near some nice restaurants and delis.  Many boats are anchored out in the harbor and dinghy in to the docks to visit town.

Today is Cinco de Mayo so we are celebrating with margaritas and fajitas for dinner!  We don't have a blender so, fortunately, we found these which work just great!  Now, where is that shaker of salt?

Charleston to Isle Of Palms SC

Well, we're off!  Down the Ashley River, across Charleston Bay and onto the Intercoastal Waterway (ICW).  The day was cloudy but warm (80's) and the sun eventually did shine.  We traveled only about 30 miles today as we really wanted to stop at the Isle of Palms marina for the night. We had been to the older, more historic island: Sullivan's Island to see Fort Moultrie last time; but had heard how beautiful this recently developed island is and wanted to see it.  Besides, there is a great restaurant with live music tonight and it sounded like fun.

The pictures of Charleston from the bay didn't turn out well as it was cloudy but the views of the battery were still beautiful... and we saw DOLPHINS!  Hopefully we'll see more and get pictures next time!

Restaurant here at the IOP marina... Live music this evening!

 Surprisingly we were guest docked next to another boat from Las Vegas NV!  What are the chances of two boats on the dock in SC from Las Vegas?  Pretty good, our neighbors told us that last year when they were here at this marina there were actually three boats from Las Vegas!  Unlike our boat which trailered here, these boats were purchased here on the East Coast somewhere but the people live (or used to live) in LV.  Our dock neighbors recently sold their house and live on their 42ft Hunter Sailboat (with two storage units: one in NC and one in FL).  They divide their time between their storage units traveling up and down the coast and enjoying the cruising life.

Today was the first annual "corn hole" tournament here at the IOP Marina.  Corn Row is some kind of game, similar to horseshoes except you throw some kind of burlap bags into wooden platform, shooting for a hole.

The sun actually came out about 3pm and we decided to take our bikes to the beach (Atlantic side) and around the golf course... very fun!

 Typical $3-4 million dollar homes at the beach. We decided we want one!

Rob planning the next legs of our trip.

On the way back from the beach, we took a neighborhood side street just to check out the "average" homes (not on the ocean beach or on the ICW or the golfcourse).  Still very large homes and very beautiful. We saw a sight seldom seen in captivity: but I couldn't get a picture... sorry!  Two very tan, very fit young ladies riding skate boards through the neighborhood... in very skimpy thong bikinis. (Don't their butts get sunburn?)  Rob was happy we chose that side street.

After our bike ride, the band at the restaurant was starting up.  We were treated to live music (two different bands with very different playsets) all evening.  We pulled our lawnchairs out onto the dock and joined our neighbors for great boat stories,beer and wine, and live music until 10pm.  A great day!
Isle of Palms, SC

Return to Charleston, start of Leg 2

After a restful few weeks at home, in our own beds, we returned to Charleston to begin the second leg of the trip.   Our boat and car and belongings were all fine, although the boat was filthy.  We launched at Rivers Edge Marina on the Ashley River (North Charleston side) and stayed two nights; cleaning, provisioning etc.

The marina was convenient but noisy as it is situated right next to a bridge (highway to Savannah).  Our boat looked tiny compared to the other boats there!

Middleton Plantation

We spent the last two nights of our first leg of our trip at the Inn at the Middleton Plantation which is across the Ashley River west of Charleston and several miles out into the countryside.   The Inn was like a rustic lodge with luxury bedding and a fireplace, overlooking the woods and river.  Down a path, "over the river and through the woods" (Ok, it was actually over one of many man-made ponds), we found the very interesting plantation grounds, beautiful formal gardens and the guest house/museum (the main house was destroyed in the Civil War), a replica slave quarters, and some farm buildings.  All of the buildings (except the slave quarters/shack) were brick.

One of the two guest houses which flanked the main house

The tour of the house was fascinating as it explained the history of the Middleton family who owned many plantations, and were very important politically.  Their family included the president of Continental Congress, signer of Declaration of Independence, governor of SC, signer of declaration of secession, diplomat to Russia, artist and archeologist...  an accomplished and wealthy family in Colonial America.

We saw an example rice pad where they grew "Carolina Gold" rice; which was actually the reason slaves were imported in early Colonial times... King Cotton came later.  Rice eventually became just too labor intensive to produce here and other crops (tobacco, cotton etc) were more profitable.

We also enjoyed talking to the craftsmen who work in the "farmyard" area: a potter and a "cooper" (making a barrel.  The best part was just enjoying the lovely gardens where camillias and azalias and magnolias were in bloom (mid March).  If time were no issue, this is a place I would come back to: just to see the gardens in different seasons of the year.

Rob is standing on a block used to mount horses.  He is in front of the main entrance of the main house (which was destroyed).  There were two side "guest houses" next to the main house.  Only one of these guest houses is still in existence.

 Rob is standing at the place where the "front" of the mansion looked out on the Ashley River.  It took much longer to get to the plantation by land than by river, so the house was oriented towards the river

.View from a distance looking across the "green" approaching the guest house from the road.  At various times during our visit, goats and sheep were grazing on the green.

This was a lovely mill pond constructed "just to be pretty".. the mill building may never have been used as a mill, but was used as a site for ladies luncheons and events.  Rob (above) is on the trail between the guest house and this mill pond.

This charming statue was buried in the gardens during the Civil War and then unearthed when the war was over.  Many household items that could not be transported in the escape of the family were buried or hidden or loaned to other, less targeted, homes.  Records were obviously kept so that the items could be found and reinstalled on the property.  Two of the homes (main house and one guest house) were burned by "renegade" Union troops (not Sherman's troops).

One of the rice ponds

Just a pretty magnolia

 Huge oak trees around the property... probably original and preserved when the land was first cleared.

Horse drawn carriage tour

Middleton Place, Charleston SC

Random days in Charleston

Here are some random pictures we took in the historic center of Charleston.

 Just one of the thousands of very cool mansions in town, beautifully restored.

 A beautiful church spire... it was painted black during the civil war so that it wouldn't be a "target".

 The gate in front of the "big" house where we are staying... the gate is very similar to those made by Phillip Simmons that we saw on tour yesterday.  I can't remember the "name" on the "big house" in front of our carriage house... but it was built in the 1800's by the wife of the head of the railroad here in Charleston (appropriate or what?) when her husband died and she wanted a "little house"... HA!  The house could never be called little.

But "our house" in the back IS little.  We were told it was the maids quarters and/or the kitchen PLUS a shed.  Depending on the actual date, it could have been been a slaves quarters?  Anyway, its very cute inside and out and we have loved the peacefulness of not being in a motel, and not living with an owner in a B&B or Inn.

On our last day in town, we took the free shuttle all over, saw the Slavery Museum (where they had auctioned off slaves).. very interesting (and sad).

I made Rob visit the graveyard in the First (Scots) Presbyterian Church (est 1731 but rebuilt in 1814); which our Gullah guide had said was the first in SC, and one of the first in America.  If the McClains made it as far south as South Carolina, (and there is evidence that they did), they probably visited this church in the mid 1700's.  Certainly, many Scotch- Irish did land in Charleston when they immigrated. We found lots of last names that I've seen in my genealogy research, but there is probably no relationship.  Still, Rob's Kentucky ancestor, Isaac, had to come from somewhere, right?

Tomorrow we visit some marinas (business again), and then a plantation where we are staying the next two days.

Not sure this post is very interesting to anyone but me; I guess I'll edit it when we get home!

City tour, Ft Sumter, Gullah tour and biking around town.

We walked about 3 blocks and found the Charleston Museum, the visitors center and the starting point for all the tours.  It looks like we won't need our car at all because we are near to everything (and there is also a free shuttlebus).

First on the agenda was the city tour which pointed out all the sights including so many churches of as many different denominations (at least it seemed that way).  Charleston is known as the "holy city" because there are 109 churches and the population is only about 125,000 (and that's today; it was much smaller when all these were built).  Many of the churches have been rebuilt 3 times due to fires and earthquakes (yes, earthquakes!); but rebuild them they did.  Each was unique and beautiful.  The city seems to be primarily residential, and still very much lived in by residents.  Yes, there are homes turned into b&b's, or museums, or divided into apartments; but also many appear to be family homes.  It was a good introduction to the major streets and sights but I couldn't report any great tidbits... oh, except one: don't take home any Spanish moss as it is filled with chiggers! (good to know, I've been on chigger alert and feeling itchy ever since that news)

Then we were off to Ft Sumpter and a cruise on the beautiful bay.  A lot of sailboats; a beautiful skyline; and a dramatic bridge... hmm, reminds me of somewhere...  The fort was very interesting, especially after having read Doubleday's account of the surrender.  Like Moultrie, it has changed a great deal over the years, with new armored batteries etc.

The next day we rode our bikes just because the day was so gorgeous.  We took the 2 hour Gullah Tour, which was similar to the previous day's city tour, but with an interesting difference.  Most of the same sights were pointed out, but the driver had a different "take" on the history.  The first tour touted John C Calhoun as the greatest politician ever; but the Gullah driver told us how Calhoun was called "Killhoun" by the slaves and their descendents.  Because supposedly Calhoun felt that the only good slave was a dead slave... or something like that.  

I was disappointed that the tour didn't focus on the Gullah culture except that he would speak Gullah and ask us to guess what he said.  "Cracking da teet", means talking/gossiping, they don't have the sound for a th in their language.  He did speak about quite a few free slaves and their accomplishments; and pointed out all the beautiful wrought iron fences and gates created by one local black artist Phillip Simmons, now deceased; ultimately taking us to his small home and workshop.  

One of the most interesting things he pointed out was a tour of a Methodist church parking lot.  Yes, just a regular parking lot... but in front of the parking places, and along the walkways were transplanted early gravestones.  Apparently the church had paved over the graveyard!  (He didn't say whether people had been reburied or not; but we did hear of several times where construction throughout town had required re-burials). This particular church was the only one in town that was non discriminatory.  Not only was the church integrated, but they also allowed blacks to be buried in their church's graveyard.  He also said that Charleston really never had civil rights issues, because, after all, everyone was related. (Not sure I believe that)

Both tours here, and also the one in Savannah seem to be totally preoccupied with paranormal activity (eg: haunted house stories).  I wonder if that is an influence of the African/Carribean culture?  We did learn the reason behind the blue shutters was to ward off the "haints" (ghosts).... and the reason that brides are told to wear something blue is for the same reason!  Blue painted on the ceilings of the porches (called "piazzas" in Charleston) does double duty... the ghosts don't like it, but neither do the bugs.

We then rode down to the waterfront; and down Tradd Street (in honor of a novel I had read), and back up the other side of the peninsula.  I don't think I've written on the blog yet about our very nifty bikes.  These are little, foldable electric bikes.  Foldable and light enough for us to take in our C-Dory.  Electric because, well, it sounded like fun... and they are!  We figured if we were doing this cruising without a car, we might need them to get to the grocery store, or laundry... or just to get from a marina to town.  So far, we've used them quite a bit and have been glad to have them.

Random pretty home on Tradd Street

In Charleston on the waterfront

The bikes have a carrying case (weight 32lbs), fold up in a few steps, and fit in the cockpit.  You can ride them manually, or with pedal assist, or just using the throttle.  They go about 12 mph (which seems faster than it sounds), and can go about 10-15 miles on a charge (depending on how much you pedal).  www.velomini.com