Charleston to Isle Of Palms SC

Well, we're off!  Down the Ashley River, across Charleston Bay and onto the Intercoastal Waterway (ICW).  The day was cloudy but warm (80's) and the sun eventually did shine.  We traveled only about 30 miles today as we really wanted to stop at the Isle of Palms marina for the night. We had been to the older, more historic island: Sullivan's Island to see Fort Moultrie last time; but had heard how beautiful this recently developed island is and wanted to see it.  Besides, there is a great restaurant with live music tonight and it sounded like fun.

The pictures of Charleston from the bay didn't turn out well as it was cloudy but the views of the battery were still beautiful... and we saw DOLPHINS!  Hopefully we'll see more and get pictures next time!

Restaurant here at the IOP marina... Live music this evening!

 Surprisingly we were guest docked next to another boat from Las Vegas NV!  What are the chances of two boats on the dock in SC from Las Vegas?  Pretty good, our neighbors told us that last year when they were here at this marina there were actually three boats from Las Vegas!  Unlike our boat which trailered here, these boats were purchased here on the East Coast somewhere but the people live (or used to live) in LV.  Our dock neighbors recently sold their house and live on their 42ft Hunter Sailboat (with two storage units: one in NC and one in FL).  They divide their time between their storage units traveling up and down the coast and enjoying the cruising life.

Today was the first annual "corn hole" tournament here at the IOP Marina.  Corn Row is some kind of game, similar to horseshoes except you throw some kind of burlap bags into wooden platform, shooting for a hole.

The sun actually came out about 3pm and we decided to take our bikes to the beach (Atlantic side) and around the golf course... very fun!

 Typical $3-4 million dollar homes at the beach. We decided we want one!

Rob planning the next legs of our trip.

On the way back from the beach, we took a neighborhood side street just to check out the "average" homes (not on the ocean beach or on the ICW or the golfcourse).  Still very large homes and very beautiful. We saw a sight seldom seen in captivity: but I couldn't get a picture... sorry!  Two very tan, very fit young ladies riding skate boards through the neighborhood... in very skimpy thong bikinis. (Don't their butts get sunburn?)  Rob was happy we chose that side street.

After our bike ride, the band at the restaurant was starting up.  We were treated to live music (two different bands with very different playsets) all evening.  We pulled our lawnchairs out onto the dock and joined our neighbors for great boat stories,beer and wine, and live music until 10pm.  A great day!
Isle of Palms, SC

Return to Charleston, start of Leg 2

After a restful few weeks at home, in our own beds, we returned to Charleston to begin the second leg of the trip.   Our boat and car and belongings were all fine, although the boat was filthy.  We launched at Rivers Edge Marina on the Ashley River (North Charleston side) and stayed two nights; cleaning, provisioning etc.

The marina was convenient but noisy as it is situated right next to a bridge (highway to Savannah).  Our boat looked tiny compared to the other boats there!

Middleton Plantation

We spent the last two nights of our first leg of our trip at the Inn at the Middleton Plantation which is across the Ashley River west of Charleston and several miles out into the countryside.   The Inn was like a rustic lodge with luxury bedding and a fireplace, overlooking the woods and river.  Down a path, "over the river and through the woods" (Ok, it was actually over one of many man-made ponds), we found the very interesting plantation grounds, beautiful formal gardens and the guest house/museum (the main house was destroyed in the Civil War), a replica slave quarters, and some farm buildings.  All of the buildings (except the slave quarters/shack) were brick.

One of the two guest houses which flanked the main house

The tour of the house was fascinating as it explained the history of the Middleton family who owned many plantations, and were very important politically.  Their family included the president of Continental Congress, signer of Declaration of Independence, governor of SC, signer of declaration of secession, diplomat to Russia, artist and archeologist...  an accomplished and wealthy family in Colonial America.

We saw an example rice pad where they grew "Carolina Gold" rice; which was actually the reason slaves were imported in early Colonial times... King Cotton came later.  Rice eventually became just too labor intensive to produce here and other crops (tobacco, cotton etc) were more profitable.

We also enjoyed talking to the craftsmen who work in the "farmyard" area: a potter and a "cooper" (making a barrel.  The best part was just enjoying the lovely gardens where camillias and azalias and magnolias were in bloom (mid March).  If time were no issue, this is a place I would come back to: just to see the gardens in different seasons of the year.

Rob is standing on a block used to mount horses.  He is in front of the main entrance of the main house (which was destroyed).  There were two side "guest houses" next to the main house.  Only one of these guest houses is still in existence.

 Rob is standing at the place where the "front" of the mansion looked out on the Ashley River.  It took much longer to get to the plantation by land than by river, so the house was oriented towards the river

.View from a distance looking across the "green" approaching the guest house from the road.  At various times during our visit, goats and sheep were grazing on the green.

This was a lovely mill pond constructed "just to be pretty".. the mill building may never have been used as a mill, but was used as a site for ladies luncheons and events.  Rob (above) is on the trail between the guest house and this mill pond.

This charming statue was buried in the gardens during the Civil War and then unearthed when the war was over.  Many household items that could not be transported in the escape of the family were buried or hidden or loaned to other, less targeted, homes.  Records were obviously kept so that the items could be found and reinstalled on the property.  Two of the homes (main house and one guest house) were burned by "renegade" Union troops (not Sherman's troops).

One of the rice ponds

Just a pretty magnolia

 Huge oak trees around the property... probably original and preserved when the land was first cleared.

Horse drawn carriage tour

Middleton Place, Charleston SC

Random days in Charleston

Here are some random pictures we took in the historic center of Charleston.

 Just one of the thousands of very cool mansions in town, beautifully restored.

 A beautiful church spire... it was painted black during the civil war so that it wouldn't be a "target".

 The gate in front of the "big" house where we are staying... the gate is very similar to those made by Phillip Simmons that we saw on tour yesterday.  I can't remember the "name" on the "big house" in front of our carriage house... but it was built in the 1800's by the wife of the head of the railroad here in Charleston (appropriate or what?) when her husband died and she wanted a "little house"... HA!  The house could never be called little.

But "our house" in the back IS little.  We were told it was the maids quarters and/or the kitchen PLUS a shed.  Depending on the actual date, it could have been been a slaves quarters?  Anyway, its very cute inside and out and we have loved the peacefulness of not being in a motel, and not living with an owner in a B&B or Inn.

On our last day in town, we took the free shuttle all over, saw the Slavery Museum (where they had auctioned off slaves).. very interesting (and sad).

I made Rob visit the graveyard in the First (Scots) Presbyterian Church (est 1731 but rebuilt in 1814); which our Gullah guide had said was the first in SC, and one of the first in America.  If the McClains made it as far south as South Carolina, (and there is evidence that they did), they probably visited this church in the mid 1700's.  Certainly, many Scotch- Irish did land in Charleston when they immigrated. We found lots of last names that I've seen in my genealogy research, but there is probably no relationship.  Still, Rob's Kentucky ancestor, Isaac, had to come from somewhere, right?

Tomorrow we visit some marinas (business again), and then a plantation where we are staying the next two days.

Not sure this post is very interesting to anyone but me; I guess I'll edit it when we get home!

City tour, Ft Sumter, Gullah tour and biking around town.

We walked about 3 blocks and found the Charleston Museum, the visitors center and the starting point for all the tours.  It looks like we won't need our car at all because we are near to everything (and there is also a free shuttlebus).

First on the agenda was the city tour which pointed out all the sights including so many churches of as many different denominations (at least it seemed that way).  Charleston is known as the "holy city" because there are 109 churches and the population is only about 125,000 (and that's today; it was much smaller when all these were built).  Many of the churches have been rebuilt 3 times due to fires and earthquakes (yes, earthquakes!); but rebuild them they did.  Each was unique and beautiful.  The city seems to be primarily residential, and still very much lived in by residents.  Yes, there are homes turned into b&b's, or museums, or divided into apartments; but also many appear to be family homes.  It was a good introduction to the major streets and sights but I couldn't report any great tidbits... oh, except one: don't take home any Spanish moss as it is filled with chiggers! (good to know, I've been on chigger alert and feeling itchy ever since that news)

Then we were off to Ft Sumpter and a cruise on the beautiful bay.  A lot of sailboats; a beautiful skyline; and a dramatic bridge... hmm, reminds me of somewhere...  The fort was very interesting, especially after having read Doubleday's account of the surrender.  Like Moultrie, it has changed a great deal over the years, with new armored batteries etc.

The next day we rode our bikes just because the day was so gorgeous.  We took the 2 hour Gullah Tour, which was similar to the previous day's city tour, but with an interesting difference.  Most of the same sights were pointed out, but the driver had a different "take" on the history.  The first tour touted John C Calhoun as the greatest politician ever; but the Gullah driver told us how Calhoun was called "Killhoun" by the slaves and their descendents.  Because supposedly Calhoun felt that the only good slave was a dead slave... or something like that.  

I was disappointed that the tour didn't focus on the Gullah culture except that he would speak Gullah and ask us to guess what he said.  "Cracking da teet", means talking/gossiping, they don't have the sound for a th in their language.  He did speak about quite a few free slaves and their accomplishments; and pointed out all the beautiful wrought iron fences and gates created by one local black artist Phillip Simmons, now deceased; ultimately taking us to his small home and workshop.  

One of the most interesting things he pointed out was a tour of a Methodist church parking lot.  Yes, just a regular parking lot... but in front of the parking places, and along the walkways were transplanted early gravestones.  Apparently the church had paved over the graveyard!  (He didn't say whether people had been reburied or not; but we did hear of several times where construction throughout town had required re-burials). This particular church was the only one in town that was non discriminatory.  Not only was the church integrated, but they also allowed blacks to be buried in their church's graveyard.  He also said that Charleston really never had civil rights issues, because, after all, everyone was related. (Not sure I believe that)

Both tours here, and also the one in Savannah seem to be totally preoccupied with paranormal activity (eg: haunted house stories).  I wonder if that is an influence of the African/Carribean culture?  We did learn the reason behind the blue shutters was to ward off the "haints" (ghosts).... and the reason that brides are told to wear something blue is for the same reason!  Blue painted on the ceilings of the porches (called "piazzas" in Charleston) does double duty... the ghosts don't like it, but neither do the bugs.

We then rode down to the waterfront; and down Tradd Street (in honor of a novel I had read), and back up the other side of the peninsula.  I don't think I've written on the blog yet about our very nifty bikes.  These are little, foldable electric bikes.  Foldable and light enough for us to take in our C-Dory.  Electric because, well, it sounded like fun... and they are!  We figured if we were doing this cruising without a car, we might need them to get to the grocery store, or laundry... or just to get from a marina to town.  So far, we've used them quite a bit and have been glad to have them.

Random pretty home on Tradd Street

In Charleston on the waterfront

The bikes have a carrying case (weight 32lbs), fold up in a few steps, and fit in the cockpit.  You can ride them manually, or with pedal assist, or just using the throttle.  They go about 12 mph (which seems faster than it sounds), and can go about 10-15 miles on a charge (depending on how much you pedal).  www.velomini.com

Charleston Day 2: Ft Moultrie and the Hunley

On our first "open" day in Charleston, we visited 2 historic sites,  Fort Moultrie and the H L  Hunley.   

In preparation for our visits to the Charleston forts (Moultrie and Sumpter), Rob and I have been reading the memoirs of Abner Doubleday (yes, the baseball guy) who served there in 1860-1861 as the second highest officer.  Rob reminds me that these are personal memoirs and will have a personal bias, but, still, they were fascinating as his viewpoint was clearly Northern/Union as he was originally from New York.  In the months before the war broke out, he served with some very Southern gentleman, and his description of their sentiments and honor were inspiring.  While they wore the uniform, they would defend the fort... but several eventually rebelled and became (as Doubleday called them, "disunionists").  He also described what it was like to live in Charleston, as a Northerner, in the year before the war.  South Carolina was the first state to sucede, and sentiments against the Union were extremely strong.  Several threats were made against the fort by "volunteers" long before the state officially left the Union.  Most interesting is that he describes everyday life in both forts, something that really made seeing them much more meaningful.

The fort was quite fascinating. It was actively used from the Revolutionary War through WWII.   It was destroyed a few times through the years,  and rebuilt and modernized as weaponry and/or war technology progressed.  Eventually, technology advanced to the point that there was no point in maintaining forts for coastal defense.   From this fort we could look across the Bay to Fort Sumter.   Moultrie was occupied by federal troops before the war broke out and they quietly evacuated one night to avoid impending capture just before Confederate guns fired on Sumter, the first shot of the "War of Yankee Aggression" as it is/was called in the South.

Ft Moultrie is on Sullivan's Island which is the subject of many novels Mary has been reading by such writers as Dorthea Frank and Eugenia Price.  It looks exactly like the old beach town that was described, and happily has not become a resort with golf courses.

From Ft. Moultrie we went to a facility where the H L Hunley is being methodically and delicately handled.   The Hunley is the first submarine used in warfare; and was actually developed by an entrapreneur (Hunley) who wanted to collect "bounties" by attacking Union ships.  It was ultimately "commandeered" by the Confederates.

This was a truly incredible and moving experience!   Several times we experienced emotional goosebumps.   This iron submarine was roughly 40' long,  only 4' tall, and 3.5' wide.   It held 8 men,  of which 1 was the captain while the other 7 worked together to turn a long crank type of mechanism that turned the propeller at the stern. 

The facility is not a museum but the plan is to build one in about 5 years.   Right now the Hunley is kept in a large tank of water to minimize deterioration.   The only way to see it is on a small guided tour that takes you up on top of a platform that looks down into the tank.   Tours only occur on the weekends.   

A few iron plates on the sub have been carefully removed for work access.  This allows visitors to see inside a bit.  It was incredibly moving to see the sub in this condition and to actually see inside of it.   We could see the crank shaft and visualize how the men sat and worked - in that very boat!    It felt  like the men were looking back at us!

The sub went down with all hands shortly after it sank it's first federal blockade ship.   The reason for this is still unknown, but research is underway to see if the sinking can be determined.  First, it had to be found... it was missing until the 1990's when it was found many miles out by an expedition funded by Clive Cussler (yes, the author).  No one knows why or how it got to where it was found.

 Great care was taken with the seamen found inside and they finally received proper burial with full honors.   This honor was hugely deserved.   The incredible bravery and dedication it took for these men to volunteer in this capacity, and then to creep down inside this tiny dark iron hull.  Before the Hunley went out on its fatal mission,  2 other similar subs had been built and launched,  and then lost during training with most men aboard.   In the second sinking one of the men lost was the designer HL Hunley.   So the 3rd sub was given his name in honor.   Despite the track record of sinking during testing, men readily volunteered for this service when the 3rd one was built.  Truly amazing...

Replica of Hunley... 10% Bigger than the actual.. Men used hand cranks to propel the boat

The Hunley soaking in its tank

After this we moved into our home for the next 4 nights, a "carriage house" (actually a maids quarters) behind an historic home.  We took a chance and used a service called "airbnb.com" because we weren't having much luck finding anything close into the historic section; that wasn't outrageously expensive.  We have a nice kitchen, a sitting area, and a 4 poster bed.  We met the owner when we arrived, and she was everything a charming Southern hostess would be.  As we were talking, I mentioned Pat Conroy, and she said she'd had dinner with him and his wife.  She pulled up their address on her cell phone and told us where he lived (not that we're going to stalk him!).  

Charleston SC

We are spending a whole week in Charleston as there is so much to do and see here; especially for Civil War buffs.  The day we arrived, the weather changed for the better; and so did our spirits.  First order of business was to find a place to park the boat (and ultimately the car), as this is the last town on this "leg" of our tour.  We also wanted to stay in the historical downtown, and didn't want to live on the boat in a marina... so we needed to find Freedom a new home.  We found an excellent covered parking space for the boat, and an indoor garage for our car (filled with our "stuff").  They will live here while we are back home for a few months, and then again for another month or two while we take the boat up the ICW.

Once our "business" was accomplished, we headed to Mt Pleasant and Sullivans Island over the beautiful Ravenal Bridge:

While we thought this bridge was beautiful, we were shocked to discover that it rates as the #1 attraction to see on Trip Advisor!

Charleston is a peninsula between two rivers: the Ashley on the west, and the Cooper on the right.  This bridge is over the Cooper; and is very high because it accommodates a lot of ship traffic.  Charleston is the 10th busiest port in the US; and also host to cruise ships.

Since we are staying here for so long;  I'll probably post several separate blogs about specific areas we found interesting, but here is our itinerary while we are here.  I'll put an * next to any that were deemed interesting enough to post about.

Day 1: arrived and took care of the car and boat parking; stayed at a motel in Mt Pleasant.
*Day 2: saw Ft Moultrie, The Hunley and then headed to our B&B "apartment" in the historic center.
*Day 3: did a city tour and took the boat to Ft Sumter
Day 4: did the Gullah tour; took our bikes all around the city.
Day 5 &6: Moved over to West Ashley (across the Ashley river from Charleston) and stayed at the Inn on the Middleton Plantation; toured the plantation and readied the boat for our departure.
Day 7: HOME!

We will have been gone 5 weeks and 2 days; and I think we both agree that we'd like to ensure that our further adventures are shorter legs.  It's partly the weather and the long days of driving, but we will be glad to get back to our own beds!

Beaufort SC

We didn't make it to Beaufort  pronounced BYOO-fert" (as in "beautiful") because we were cruising by land, not by sea; and its a bit out of the way from major freeways..  I should have made the effort, though, because it is a town I would love to see.  I guess that is reason to come back.  I'm adding it to the blog because, had we been cruising by boat, this is an important stop on the ICW.

There are two towns named Beaufort on the ICW, this one in SC, and another in NC (pronounced BOH-Fert, as in  the name Beauregard.  I fell in love with the idea of a southern coastal vacation about 25 years ago when I first read books by Pat Conroy, who wrote about Beaufort SC.  Since then, I've read dozens of "low country" books.

Many movies have been staged in Beaufort, including the shrimpboat scenes from Forest Gump; The Big Chill, The Great Santini (by Pat Conroy), GI Jane, Something to Talk About, The Prince of Tides (by Pat Conroy), Forces of Nature.  There is even a movie tour.

Pat Conroy's books first introduced me to the Gullah culture; and it is something I would enjoy learning more about.  The outer banks of the South Eastern coast is officially now designated as the Gullah/Geechee Cultural Heritage Corridor by the Nathional Park Service.  The area extends from Wilmington NC to St Augustine FL.  The Gullah/Geechee are descendents of slaves who lived in very remote and isolated lands and islands.  Many worked on the rice plantations, others "farmed" the sea.  Even after emancipation, they continued to live on these remote islands, making their living from fishing and farming.   Because they lived remotely all this time, they retained much of their African culture.  They also developed their own language which is a mixture of English,Spanish,French and of course African words. We met a "Gullah"man on our tour of Savannah who taught us some phrases, but now I can't remember them!  It is not really like the Creole culture you find in the swamps in Louisiana as that was chiefly French and African influence (and maybe some Osage Indian).   The name Gullah is given to the residents of South Carolina, however, in Georgia, they are often referred to as Geechee.  Either way, it is a fascinating segment of the melting pot which is America.  We are going on a "Gullah" tour when we reach Charleston SC.
Beaufort SC

Savannah GA

After a night of pouring rain at the campground in St Augustine, our boat looked a little cleaner but everything seemed wet.  We headed out in a storm and drove to Savannah in a storm and found a motel some near to the historical center. We knew we wouldn't be able to find good parking near the sights.

For the past several months, I've been reading book after book about Savannah, Charleston and lands in between.  I was psyched to see the town depicted in "Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil" by John Berendt; which of course I re-read for the occasion.  If you haven't read it, it focuses primarily on a murder trial where a local antique dealer and restoration architect, is tried for murder 3 times (2 were mistrials).  Other eccentric townspeople who befriended Berendt are also important characters in the book.

Our first impressions of Savannah weren't too great, but then, we were staying on the outskirts of the downtown.  Much of it is, well, decrepit, and in need of restoration.  As we approached downtown, though, we could see the beautiful streets, bordered by huge live oaks, dripping in mysterious Spanish moss.  We hopped on the trolley tour and saw street after street of beautiful old homes, back to the 1700's, each facing lovely squares (outdoor living rooms).

Savannah was declared too beautiful and charming by General Sherman, and so escaped his burning and plundering on his march to the sea.  Instead, he presented the city intact to Lincoln as a gift.  So most of the military history we were seeing and hearing about was of Revolutionary heroes from South Carolina.  Of course, there was some talk of "that recent unpleasantness.. the war of Yankee aggression".

We learned that Savannah is the 4th busiest port in the USA which surprised us.  (First is Los Angeles, followed by Long Beach, then  New York/New Jersey.  (I'm not sure why New York and New Jersey count as one, when they didn't combine Los Angeles and Long Beach?)

Everywhere we were reminded of "Forest Gump" sitting on his park bench, eating his box of chocolate.

I wished we had stayed in town in one of the many charming inns, wandering the streets and exploring the shops and churches would have been wonderful... in better weather.  Instead we made it back to the burbs and continued to dry out the boat.

Savannah GA

St. Augustine Florida

We spent two nights in St. Augustine Florida but were not able to cruise, or, for that matter, sightsee very much.  It rained and blustered but we did get out to see the fort: Castillo de San Marcos.  This city was constructed by the Spanish in 1565, and protected by wooden forts for the next 100 years.  The castillo is a star-shaped masonry fort, built between 1672 and 1695.  The walls are 12-19 feet thick and made of a type of limestone sedimentary rock, formed of tiny seashells which are clearly visible in the stone.  The coolest part was the moat and drawbridge... I didn't know there were forts like this outside of Europe; it was very medieval in appearance.

We thoroughly enjoyed eavesdropping on the rangers leading groups of schoolchildren on tours.  They were entertaining to both the kids and the adults; it is wonderful that our forest service employs such obviously talented people.

St. Augustine as been known as the oldest European settlement in the USA, however, just this year (2014) it was announced that the location of  Ft Caroline, settled by the French in 1564, has been found.  It is located near Brunswick GA, close to the town of Darien GA. So, history books will have to be rewritten!

The ICW (intercoastal waterway) looks very intriguing in this area; but since the weather wasn't predicted to clear up; we decided that we might as well be driving to our next destination. (Isn't that a horrible reason to drive through pounding rain and wind?)

Tonight we are in Savannah GA at a motel and enjoying TV and, especially, the bathtub!  The forecast says the afternoon will be dry and temperatures warming for the next several days.  We're hoping the boat and our belongings dry out as well.

St Augustine FL