Colonial Williamsburg

We arrived at Colonial Williamsburg a bit exhausted but did walk to Duke of Gloucester Street to have dinner at the tavern.  I LOVED Williamsburg so I'm afraid I am going to bore you with all the details. It was probably one of the more expensive dinners we've had (tourist fare), but very tasty and served by appropriately attired Colonial servants who called me "milady" despite my shorts, sweaty t-shirt and hat hair. Throughout the meal we were seranaded by minstrals with flute, fife, guitar, mandolin... We were seated outdoors in the lovely garden on a perfect evening.

After a glorious tub bath (I hope our next boat has a tub) and a good nights sleep we set off with the goal of seeing some musical performances in another tavern.  One of the guides explained that the reason there were so many taverns (something like 20 for a town of 1500 residents), was because this was the capital city where the House of Burgess met to legislate, incarcerate, judge and possibly hang offenders.  It was a party town; lots of dancing and performances.

We were treated to both vocal and instrumental music, as well as some comedic talks and dances.  Afterwards, I approached the harpsichord player to ask to see his instrument.  I've always liked harpsichord and hope the I will get an explanation of how it works.  Someday, maybe someone will let me play "Chopsticks" or "Heart and Soul" on a harpsichord and my life will be complete.  Instead he got very excited, still keeping his Colonial persona and speech, telling me about an exhibition of antique keyboard instruments at the Folk Art Museum.  I had considered the museum as we planned the day but discarded the idea as I thought Rob would be bored with primitive art and quilts (which are two things I enjoy).  But now it was back on the agenda.

Then, as we were strolling to the capital, we heard someone speaking out and walked down to a ravine behind yet another tavern.  There, in a rustic amphitheater, was Thomas Jefferson, speaking and answering ad-hoc questions.  No one could phase him, no matter what he was asked, he remained in character and speech true to Jeffersonian principle.

The capital had burned down twice before being reconstructed, in modern era, in the design of the first captial.. the one used before the revolution by the house of Burgess.  Still, the tour guide focused on the era when Jefferson served here, rewriting all the laws, after the Revolution... an in accordance with being a republic.  Removing the law of inheritance to first born males, for example.  He believed that the pursuit of property should be available to all men, and by doing that more people could vote and rule by the majority of the people.

The capital, with it's two rounded sides, separated by the covered piazza was beautiful inside.  What struck me most were that so many of the Colonial actors/interpreters spoke with English accents.  I'd never really thought about it but I imagined Washington, Jefferson and our other founding fathers to speak like Americans! (possibly with southern accents)

As we left the Capital we approached a gathering crowd in quite a state of agitation as the Declaration of Independence was read; condemning the tyrant king.  Afterwards a vigorous discussion was overheard between two men on the street.  One, loyal to the king, another a revolutionary.

Then we took a nice, airconditioned bus to the Folk museum.  Those of you who know me will smile when you imagine my glee at seeing that there was a special display called "A Handsome Cupboard of Plate".  Plates!  Pottery!  Dinnerware!  Silverware!  Added to quilts, and antique instruments, I was in for a treat.. and Rob sighed.

This piece was an anomoly.. it didn't belong in the fine Colonial furniture, or in the musical instruments, so it was placed in an area of homemade folk art insturments.  It has numerous hidden compartments and looks like a bureau drawer... but, if you open it, it houses a simple piano.  No one knows why they would hide a piano in this way... perhaps pianos were taxed as a luxury item?

Spinets, Piano Forte and Harpsichords with listening stations.

We came upon another performance in the museum: this of a free black person living in Williamsburg.  Quite a bit was known of her and her family due to property transactions and law suits.  She owned a little land and had a laundress business.

Heading back to the main street we came across this very lovely garden.  We are here at the perfect time of the year... not many school kids, not crowded, not too hot.

I'm not sure you could imagine my delight as we stumbled across George Washington addressing his troops as they prepared to leave for Yorktown.  Literally, my hair raised on my neck, and I couldn't have been more excited than if he was the real thing.  It must have been his white horse... there is something about a hero on a white horse that thrills a maiden. Huzzah!

The troops performed some exercises displaying fighting tactics while the drum and fifes played for us

It was a great day.  I wish every American school kid could come here.  Thank you John Rockafeller for preserving this for us.

We returned to the hotel to rest and blog, and then at 8:30 met in the lobby for a free ghost tour (courtesy of the hotel).  Only 3 other guests were with us, and ironically, one was from Nevada!  The tour was fun and she added other general facts about Williamsburg that we hadn't known.

I typed this all in the car, while enroute back to Steves in Portsmouth to pick up our boat.  Technology is amazing, isn't it?

Colonial Williamsburg

Yorktown and Jamestown

Last night we stayed at "Joan's B&B" (in the guest room at our new C-Brat friend's house).  They have gone above and beyond any preconception of southern hospitality.  Not only was a "real bed and shower" a welcome respite, but we could get laundry done and enjoyed a wonderful homemade meal next door with his sister, her husband and their mom.  We have made new friends on this trip and will miss them!

We left the boat there and went on our way to visit Yorktown, Jamestown and Williamsburg (staying at Williamsburg Lodge for 2 night..YAY!)  But, of course, we had to first stop at West Marine as it was on the way... and of course, "a boat is a hole in the water that you pour money into".

The Yorktown Visitor's Center is well done, explaining how General Washington tricked the Brits into thinking they were still camped outside of NYC (by leaving tents and a few troops doing drills etc)..and then marched down to Yorktown, where, combined with the French navy, they won the war for us.  Hooray! (I mean, Huzzah!... huzzah?)

We took the little trolley around town, saw the fabulous Yorktown monument (below), and the lovely coastline and little shoppes... with girls walking around in bikinis.  Looks like a nice summer retreat town.

Then we stopped at Jamestown where we saw the reconstructed Jamestown fort (small wooden buildings surrounded by tall wooden fences.  Also an example Powaton (sp?) Indian village, where we heard the true story of Pocahontas and John Smith... wait, you mean that there were no singing trees?

Along the river they had three sailing ships to represent the three ships who brought the Jamestown settlers.  No, they weren't the Nina Pinta and Santa Maria... but for whatever reason, there were three ships.  The ships apparently do sail and sometimes interpreters will bring one to other towns so that people there can tour them.

Jamestown was interesting to me since I had recently read Chesapeake by Michener where the first few chapters were about the Indians and then John Smith (who was not that favorably portrayed).

These were quick visits; worth doing, but probably better for kids than adults.  On to Williamsburg!

Yorktown VA
Jamestown VA

Our Intrepid "Swamp Fox"

I hope I won't be embarrassing him here, so I won't use real names, but just call him Francis; after Francis Marion, "The Swamp Fox" of revolutionary fame.  Our 'Swamp Fox" built his own 28 ft boat... It's lines are similar to a C-Dory, but it is much longer and taller with a deeper keel.  It is also fairly narrow for its length (about 8 ft wide).  

For anyone who doesn't know; or doesn't want to reference Wikipedia to find out; Francis Marion is considered the "father of guerilla warfare", and the movie "Patriot" (Mel Gibson) is very loosely inspired by his life and escapades.  All along the ICW we saw references to Francis Marion (including a very lovely state park/campground).  He confounded the Brits, time and time again; ecaping into the swamps, to later strike again.

Our "Francis" loves the swamps and can't resist exploring every creek and inlet along the way.  He often veered off course, away from the group; later to meet up and join us for a meal.  We didn't worry, we knew he'd come around when Joan or David was cooking!  He dragged his dinghy so that he could explore areas where his boat wouldn't go.  We know he caught some fish but only to know he "could have" fed himself if he needed to.  He would anchor off, away from the docks, because he just preferred to anchor out.  If he's not the Swamp Fox, then he is Huck Finn reincarnated.  

Catfish for dinner?  Nah, he just caught it for fun

On our last day, "Francis" dawdled at some point and missed a bridge; so he traveled behind us a bit.  However, as we approached Portsmouth, we were stuck waiting for a bridge to lift (waiting over an hour and a half) and there he caught up with us.  He looked around and radioed that he thought he could go under, through the trestles.  Then motored up and down, investigating to find the best spot.  Our jaws dropped as he proceeded right through!  We asked if he scraped and whether we should try it.  We didn't get a definitive answer, so we exercised caution. Our boat is about the same beam, but the C-25 would definitely not have made it.  So, we sat another half hour listening to the pre-recorded announcement stating that the bridge would lift "momentarily".

C-Brats: Coinjock to Currituck Sound to Portsmouth

We all awoke early (for me, 8am is early) to get a jump on the Currituck Sound which can be rough even on good days, but winds were scheduled to pick up later in the morning.  First, though, we had to have breakfast.  Our chef, David, had prepared delicious pancakes (made with $6 half gallon of milk from Coinjock Marina's store), fried ham steaks, pineapple... and Joan had made cinnamon sauteed apples.  Yum!

Then we were on our way:

Alma's Only

A beautiful yacht aptly named "GEM"

The "Great Lock" was much more modern, with built in bumpers, and a very smooth ride. "Easy Peasy"

Our Fearless Leader Commander Steve

We made great time until we got stuck waiting for this bridge to open... we sat for an hour and a half as the bridge announced by recording that it would open "momentarily".  Other boats had already been waiting an hour before we got there.  The good news was that Bruce from "River Hourse", who had missed a prior bridge opening, caught up with us... but that's a story for the next post.

Coinjock NC

Portsmouth VA

Where in the hell is Coinjock?

I must confess, I do not know the answer to this question.  Last night it was FREEZING and, once Rob finally turned on the Wallas stove/heater, I didn't want to get out of bed.  All I can tell you is we left Elizabeth City around 8am and the next thing I knew, we had anchored and rafted for a little morning "brunch".  David ("Alma's Only") loves to cook, and the limited galley and storage apparently only provides a challenge to him.  Here is a picture of the "spread" I woke up to:

Then we motored for another hour or so, following our fearless leader Steve ("Osprey"), but I only raised my head from the pillow to catch a few pictures.  The next thing I knew, we were in Coinjock.  What is in Coinjock?  Well, my brother-in-law looked it up on Google Maps and wrote to tell us that "there is no there there"... I do see a few homes.  There is a nice marina here with some awesome boats and an amazingly great restaurant.  We passed a house where the grandmother had sewn the wings for the Wright Brothers.

 After my several naps today, I was ready for a great meal, with our new friends.  Its our last night of the official cruise.  They are talking about a James River Cruise-out in July and if we are in the area, we definitely want to participate.  We are having so much fun.  C-Brats are the best (and they feed you well too!) 

North Carolina Loop Dismal Swamp to Elizabeth City

This morning on the dismal swamp looked to be clear and crisp.  Dave, who apparently loves to cook, surprised us by making breakfast for the 7 of us.  Then we took a walk, across the pedestrian bridge, and over a boardwalk "loop" to see the swamp.  It is sure hard to imagine working in that swamp to hand dig a canal!  I heard lots of wildlife but, sadly, the only sighting was of a bunny and a little green "garden" snake.  I guess alligators aren't a big problem here!  There are supposed to be bears and wildcats... glad I didn't see them!

While underway, though, we did see a large water snake, lots of turtles and, we think, a beaver (could have been a muskrat).

Movin' on up... as we go south

Almost immediately after the visitors center is the second lock which we handled like pros.  It was still a thrill even if we didn't grin from ear to ear, thinking..." look at us, we're negotiating through a lock!"  I wonder if this will get "old" or if it will always be a bit nervewracking and exciting.

We stopped midway in a side creek and rafted up to enjoy a leisurely lunch.  Rob went out with Bruce ("River Horse") in his dinghy to take pictures, then Bruce decided to explore the cut while the rest of us napped and read... it was so peaceful and the day stayed slightly cool but very sunny.  It was a lovely run.

Anchoring out for lunch and a nap

Our stop at the end of the day was Lamb's Marina in Elizabeth City.  This marina is out of town but had a courtesy car and gas (which the marina in town doesn't).  And we didn't get berths in town because this weekend is the very famous "Potato Festival" which is a big deal here.  We saw potato fixed many different ways, along with all the usual festival fare.  Not good for my low carb diet!  There was even a potato peeling contest earlier today, and once again, we ran into a corn hole tournament.  I guess we've been missing out on a tradition in the Carolinas as this is our second sighting of corn hole tournaments?

We had dinner at a nice little restaurant which was excellent and avoided the food booths.  I still, however, could not resist the french fries.  It was the principle of the thing!

Elizabeth City has many lovely old homes, some run down, some that are being beautifully maintained.  It is the main city in these parts and has the federal and county court houses, and old churches established in the early 1700's.  It is known for its hospitality to boaters... particularly the "Rose Buddies", volunteers who meet and greet boaters visiting the area.  Overall we weren't that impressed with either Elizabeth City or Lamb's Marina... but we loved the Dismal Swamp.

Gorgeousness in Elizabeth City

Gingerbread House

Elizabeth City Potato Festival.. Music!

Dismal Swamp

Elizabeth City, NC

C-Brats Gathering.. North Carolina Loop, Day 1

We launched at the Portsmouth City Marina, which is a lovely city park with free launch ramp.  We're told you can leave your car and trailer here for several days but we were fortunate in that we were invited to dock at the home of a fellow C-Brat who lives on a creek off the Elizabeth River, here in Portsmouth VA  What a setup he has!  A slice of heaven for a person who loves boating (he's retired Coast Guard engineer... and boy does he have stories!).  He also has 9 boats of his own counting the kayaks and a 50 ft dock, large enough to accommodate several visiting C-Dories.

We enjoyed two days at his dock, provisioned at the local Harris Teeter, and a special pre-cruise dinner at their home.  Several local C-Brats were unable to schedule the cruise, but they came to the dinner to share stories and fun.  Also in attendence were owners of a Cutwater 28 (which is an object of our lustful wishful thinking) and a 28 1/2 ft home made "C-Dory-ish" boat which was aptly named River Horse (see early post about that book).

That evening and the next morning we had torrential rains.  If the dewpoint gets just right, moisture will condensate in our boat and it actually started to "rain" in our v-berth this morning.  So everything feels wet and we'll be utilizing the clothesline as we cruise (we look a bit like derelects when we do, but, ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

We left his dock about 11:30 and arrived at the Dismal Swamp Locks for the 1:30 opening.  We were a bit nervous as this is our first locks.  We've read about how to do it, watched You Tube video "how to's" and it was a piece of cake.  The dockmaster reached down with a boat hook asking us to loop our line around it... then he looped our line around a post and gave the end back to us.  We held it tight until all the boats were in the lock.. and then he raised us up to the canal level.

In our lock with us is a Roseborough 246; one of the C-Dory-ish boats which we considered.  It was fun to really check one out as we cruised alongside.  Our entourage of C-Brats consists of 1-25ft, 2-22 ft, and our 23ft Venture and the home-made 28 1/2ft River Horse.

The Dismal Swamp was surveyed in 1728 by Colonel William Byrd II who pronounced it 'dismal".  Much of the land was owned by George Washington, who, along with Patrick Henry, encouraged other investors to create the Dismal Swamp Canal Company.  The goal was to create a "spiderweb" of canals to float timber out of the swampy area and into Virginia.  The main Dismal Canal is about 22 miles long, and was dug, BY SHOVEL, by slaves over the course of 12 years.  The slaves came to know the swamp well and it became a haven for runaways.  It is featured in the novel "Dred: A Tale of the Great Dismal Swamp" by Harriet Beecher Stowe.  Edgar Allen Poe is said to have written the Raven here.  And the play/movie "Showboat" is a story about one of many showboats that sailed this canal.

Freedom at Steve's dock, I mean, Steve's Marina

At the bottom of the lock

The Dockmaster gives instructions and a brief history of the Dismal Swamp

Rising to the top of the lock

C-Brats on the Dismal Swamp

River Horse, a 28.5 ft home made C-Dory like boat

As we approached the Dismal Swamp Visitor's center, the dock was full, with several trawlers and larger sailboats.  Capt'n Steve used his most authoritative Coast Guard voice to request that they move apart to allow our little pod of Brats to raft in between them.  Then it was "happy hour"

Dismal Swamp

Do's and Don'ts

To do or not to do.... sorry I couldn't resist.  This blog entry is going to be tidbits of wisdom of "stuff" we've learned... actually most is common sense and this blog is more of a "true confessions" entry.  If we have future mishaps, we'll be sure to post them here.  Hopefully these are lessons we've learned now and won't repeat!

It's been a few days since I've posted because we've been mostly just on the road.  We rented a car in Beaufort NC (pronounced "BOWFURT") to drive to Charleston to retrieve our car and trailer.  It should have been about a 5 1/2 hour drive however, we had a glitch.  In the interest of "full disclosure", Rob wanted me to tell you not to put your car keys (and in our case the storage unit keys) in some "safe, out of the way place".  Yes, he forgot them until after we had already driven about 3/4 of the way to Charleston.  So, we actually have seen the area between Beaufort and Charleston now 5 times, once by water, and 4 times (well 3 1/2 times) by car.  Seeing Myrtle Beach by car was more interesting than by ICW and I wish we had time to stop.  Our boating neighbors called it a bit "Las Vegasy" for them, but it looked like fun to me... lots of shows, restaurants, shops and family attractions.  We won't miss it next time we are here.

So:

#1 Don't leave your keys behind!

#2 Make sure you pull your boat fenders all the way in while you are underway.  Normally we do, and we can't remember not doing this, but, somewhere along the way we lost a fender.

#3, If Internet Wifi and/or a pool is important to you, don't believe the website for the marina... call ahead to make sure the pool is open and the wifi is operational.

#4 Don't believe the marina's website with regard to "walking distance" to town.  Use Google Earth and make sure its walkable for YOU!

#5 Have a backup GPS system.  Our Raymarine GPS system is acting flaky.  Luckily we also have a Google Nexus tablet (built in GPS) which has both the Navionics app AND Nav App which interfaces with Active Captain (gives reviews for marinas, launch ramps, hazards etc).  We're not sure if our "real" GPS is fixable but we're surfing Ebay for a replacement today just in case.  If we can't fix or replace it with a used unit, the whole radar system will need to be upgraded which will be a major, unplanned expense... wish us luck!  (I also have these apps on my smartphone)

#6 Don't forget sunscreen for your feet if you spend a day in sandals.  I now have styling polka dot feet!

#7 Use bug spray even if you "don't see um".  I haven't seen a single mosquito, only some "harmless" gnats... but apparently they are the cause of about 52 bites I have so far..  We also have been using these butane powered ThermaCELL mosquito repellent devices (which you can wear or just have in the boat)..To me, these just seem like citronella candles without the flame... the butane heats up the citronella smell.. I am also testing some nifty wrist bands from West Marine that smell like Lemon Pledge.  If you are "extra sweet", like me, none of this works all that well... so pack some salve and remedies to combat the itching!  I really think the cosmetic companies have to invent a combination sunscreen/bugspray/moisturizer!  If there is such a thing, email me, so I can buy some!

#8 Bring long enough line if you are going through the locks.  We have a couple 25ft lines and it was OK, but longer would have been better.  Rob, the sailor, tied a few together... which works, but they also catch on themselves as you try to loop them.  We'll bring more from home on the next leg.

#9 Have some of your boat fenders pre-tied to hang horizontally off your cleats, rather than vertically.  This seems to work better on the locks, when you have to tie to poles on fixed docks, rather than floating docks, and when you are rafted next to other boats.

#10  I know you'll make lots of lists of things to remember to bring home or back to the boat, but make a habit of looking for your lists before you leave town!  And bring your lists with you so you have them at the other end.  (Before we left the boat to come home, we measured for some things we needed to make, and things we needed to buy... and of course, proceeded to come home without the list)

Today we are in Portsmouth VA meeting up with several other C-Dories for a cruise out.  More on that in my next posts.